Tuesday, 15 January 2013

FLAPPERS

Flappers were independent women, they made their own decisions in everything from their fashion and beauty choices to their attitudes to life. The flappers were unique and stood out from the other women because of their bold attitudes and behaviours, behaviour which was frowned upon by many. This was due to their wearing of excessive make up, excessive drinking and attitudes to smoking and casual sex.


The typical flapper was usually seen wearing short shapeless dresses, that wear easy to dance and move around in. These were also usually heavily embellished with beading and sequins which made the dresses eye catching and expensive looking. They wanted to be envied and looked at by others and these dresses achieved that.

Dropped waist dresses, which were introduced by Coco Chanel, were also common amongst flapper culture, contrasting to the form fitting high waistlines seen in fashions previous to the 1920's. The silhouette in the 20's drastically changed, to a looser less feminine style.




















The fur coat was another wardrobe staple for the flapper girl, which she would layer over any outfit, day or night and would further enhance the glamour that they were all about.


Beauty wise, the flappers had short bobbed hairstyles, which could sometimes be curled to achieve a glamorous look. For make-up they wore a lot more than had ever been seen before this time, with red lipstick, dark eyeliner and mascara and bold eyeshadows.


Accessories were also very important to the typical flapper. There would rarely be a flapper seen with a cloche hat on their head. This was a piece that originated in the 20's and is still seen today as a symbol of that era. Cloches would usually be worn as daywear, however, in the evening on more glamorous occasions, sparkly, embellished headpieces or headbands would be worn.



Lace-up flats were the go to casual shoe for a flapper for walking around during the daytime, on an evening they opted for Mary Jane style pumps which were appropriate for all the dancing they used to do.
 





 

CELEBRITIES

During the 1920's the was a vast celebrity culture, ranging from actors and actresses, to sports stars, to writers. The 20's however were the era of the woman celebrity, in a previously patriarchal society, this was the time when people started paying attention to women and they became public icons. Some examples of strong females to emerge at this time are the women below.

American Louise Brooks became popular when she started appearing in silent movies in 1925. She was also a dancer, model and showgirl but is most well known for her role in 1929 German film Pandora's Box in which she played the lead female character 'Lulu'. Although this is seen as a 'landmark of the silent movie era' now, at the time it was released it gain little recognition. She is also know for her 'flapper' style, being one of the first to brandish the bob, a style which became her trademark along with her sleek black hair colour and fair, freckled skin.



Josephine Baker was an American dancer, singer and actress. She found fame in Paris where she performed 'no holds barred' dance routines on stages across the city, in particular when she performed the Danse Sauvage with dance partner Joe Alex. This routine was seen as new exotic and exciting at the time, and turned Josephine, who was dressed in only a feather skirt, into an overnight sensation. When she starred in La Folie du Jou, her costume consisting of 16 bananas formed into a skirt combined with her jaw dropping performance firmly cemented her status as a celebrity. By 1927, she was earning more than any other entertainer in Europe. Although she was a big star in Europe, she failed at trying to break American on multiple occasions, with the audience there rejecting the idea of a black woman with so much power. She didn't become famous there until 1973, 2 years before her death.




images from http://lunionsuite.com/2012/02/10/video-josephine-baker-sings-haiti-in-the-film-1934/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Baker_Banana.jpg

Greta Garbo, was a Swedish film icon during Hollywoods's silent movie era. She was brought to Hollywood by Louis B. Mayer, CEO of MGM studios, in 1925 after appearing in Swedish movie The Saga of Gosta Berling. Her first silent movie, Torrent, was released a year later and immediately a buzz was created around her. Her performance, however, in Flesh and the Devil, 1927, cemented her position as an international film star.


Zelda Fitzgerald (Sayre) - wife of F.Scott Fitzgerald author of The Great Gatsby. Their partnership was seen to epitomise the jazz age as did her personal style. Her husband dubbed her 'the first American flapper' as she paved the way with her 'bobbed hair, shorts skirts and unapologetic drinking' working her way into the highest social circles of many cities. 





All of these figures, in some way, had an effect on the public at the time. They were iconic because they each did something that nobody had done before, they pushed boundaries for women, whether that be through their fashion and beauty choices or the career roles. I think the 1920's was a key era for women's freedom and rights, fashion choices were braver, and theses four figures were at the forefront as poster girls for the movements. 

Friday, 30 November 2012

SKETCHBOOK: CONTEMPORARY RESEARCH




I conducted some contemporary research on the 1920's into how the style of the period had been translated and represented in contemporary fashion. This style has been repeated quite often, Spring/Summer 2012 in particular gave a nod to the decade, and even was reported as a key trend by Vogue under the name of 'Gatsby Glamour'

The first page shows collections from a range of designers from Philosophy by Alberta Ferreti SS12 (far left), Marchesa SS11 (two images on far right) Ralph Lauren SS12 (centre and bottom left images) and Diane von Furstenburg AW 2008 (second left). The second page is Gucci SS12, a collection that fully embodied 1920's style.


Wednesday, 21 November 2012

1920'S DESIGNERS: PAUL POIRET


First Art Deco designer
Artistic flair and individual cutting skills
Inspired by: Western historical styles to folk traditions, avant guarde art to ancient cultures
1908 collection - high waisted straight dresses
Liberated women from the corset, passage towards straighter silhouettes
motifs details and ornaments- used folk art, stylized floral and geometry






Friday, 16 November 2012

1920'S DESIGNERS: MADELEINE VIONNET AND CHANEL

Haute Couture designers
both had new styles and celebrated freedom and movement in women's clothes
had different styles between them, Vionnet focusing more on cut, Chanel more on the style

MADELEINE VIONNET
used drape, took inspiration from Japanese designers used origami
brought about the bias cut dress, was previously just used for collars, this had a better fit
tended to let the fabric control the shape and effect of the garment
rarely used motifs/embroidery, if she did - sparingly, let the shape speak for itself






I particularly like the way Vionnet drapes the fabric, the final garment always enhances the women's figure. The finished garment, is soft, flowing and elegant.

CHANEL
During the 20's Chanel was the first designer to use jersey in women's clothes, it had previously been used for men's underwear. This created a more relaxed style that contrasted to the stiff corsets they were used to, which were now, by many, seen as impractical and uncomfortable. Chanel sported a striking bob and tan so as well as a designer, was seen as a style icon. In 1925, she created the cardigan jacket and in 1926 the little black dress, both of which were very popular at the time, and still to this day remain key garments in current Chanel collections. The little black dress was new because the colour had always been associated with mourning, Chanel flipped this, designing a dress for glamorous evening occasions.
Chanel also produced beaded dresses, designed for the flappers of the time


 

 

research taken from http://www.thebiographychannel.co.uk/biographies/coco-chanel.html
images from  http://www.elle.com/fashion/spotlight/coco-chanel-portrait-1920#slide-1 and google images

SKETCHBOOK: FLAPPERS

 In my sketchbook, I conducted some research into flappers as this is one of the first things I think of when looking at the 1920's. I research into it and found images that show the style and also the actions of these women. They appear to be very carefree, they were rebellious and didn't follow the rules of society at the time.

The images show the looking very glamorous, this is what they were all about, with embellished and fringed dresses, bold make up and elegant hairstyles.  I drew a small sketch in the corner of the page in fine liner which demonstrates a typical silhouette for a 1920's dress. 

Sunday, 11 November 2012

ART DECO NOTES

Ballet Russes and Leon Bakst - founded in Russia, to rejuvenate Ballet, moved to Paris in 1909




















Cubist motifs featuring fragments of broken mirrors and huge sequins. The sequins and embellishments used give a very dramatic effect, making the dresses very desirable and glamorous.


Stylized motifs borrowed from national traditions, folk art and ancient cultures. I really like these bold patterns, they are eye catching and sophisticated



Luxurious materials - silk, lace and rayon



Emancipation of women and general liberalism in 1920's central to Art Deco style
sports such as Tennis and Swimming heightened in popularity, generated new simpler look, experimentation in design and cut


Fashion designers Paul Poiret, Jean Patou, Madeleine Vionnet and Gabrielle Chanel all portrayed Art Deco style