Friday 30 November 2012

SKETCHBOOK: CONTEMPORARY RESEARCH




I conducted some contemporary research on the 1920's into how the style of the period had been translated and represented in contemporary fashion. This style has been repeated quite often, Spring/Summer 2012 in particular gave a nod to the decade, and even was reported as a key trend by Vogue under the name of 'Gatsby Glamour'

The first page shows collections from a range of designers from Philosophy by Alberta Ferreti SS12 (far left), Marchesa SS11 (two images on far right) Ralph Lauren SS12 (centre and bottom left images) and Diane von Furstenburg AW 2008 (second left). The second page is Gucci SS12, a collection that fully embodied 1920's style.


Wednesday 21 November 2012

1920'S DESIGNERS: PAUL POIRET


First Art Deco designer
Artistic flair and individual cutting skills
Inspired by: Western historical styles to folk traditions, avant guarde art to ancient cultures
1908 collection - high waisted straight dresses
Liberated women from the corset, passage towards straighter silhouettes
motifs details and ornaments- used folk art, stylized floral and geometry






Friday 16 November 2012

1920'S DESIGNERS: MADELEINE VIONNET AND CHANEL

Haute Couture designers
both had new styles and celebrated freedom and movement in women's clothes
had different styles between them, Vionnet focusing more on cut, Chanel more on the style

MADELEINE VIONNET
used drape, took inspiration from Japanese designers used origami
brought about the bias cut dress, was previously just used for collars, this had a better fit
tended to let the fabric control the shape and effect of the garment
rarely used motifs/embroidery, if she did - sparingly, let the shape speak for itself






I particularly like the way Vionnet drapes the fabric, the final garment always enhances the women's figure. The finished garment, is soft, flowing and elegant.

CHANEL
During the 20's Chanel was the first designer to use jersey in women's clothes, it had previously been used for men's underwear. This created a more relaxed style that contrasted to the stiff corsets they were used to, which were now, by many, seen as impractical and uncomfortable. Chanel sported a striking bob and tan so as well as a designer, was seen as a style icon. In 1925, she created the cardigan jacket and in 1926 the little black dress, both of which were very popular at the time, and still to this day remain key garments in current Chanel collections. The little black dress was new because the colour had always been associated with mourning, Chanel flipped this, designing a dress for glamorous evening occasions.
Chanel also produced beaded dresses, designed for the flappers of the time


 

 

research taken from http://www.thebiographychannel.co.uk/biographies/coco-chanel.html
images from  http://www.elle.com/fashion/spotlight/coco-chanel-portrait-1920#slide-1 and google images

SKETCHBOOK: FLAPPERS

 In my sketchbook, I conducted some research into flappers as this is one of the first things I think of when looking at the 1920's. I research into it and found images that show the style and also the actions of these women. They appear to be very carefree, they were rebellious and didn't follow the rules of society at the time.

The images show the looking very glamorous, this is what they were all about, with embellished and fringed dresses, bold make up and elegant hairstyles.  I drew a small sketch in the corner of the page in fine liner which demonstrates a typical silhouette for a 1920's dress. 

Sunday 11 November 2012

ART DECO NOTES

Ballet Russes and Leon Bakst - founded in Russia, to rejuvenate Ballet, moved to Paris in 1909




















Cubist motifs featuring fragments of broken mirrors and huge sequins. The sequins and embellishments used give a very dramatic effect, making the dresses very desirable and glamorous.


Stylized motifs borrowed from national traditions, folk art and ancient cultures. I really like these bold patterns, they are eye catching and sophisticated



Luxurious materials - silk, lace and rayon



Emancipation of women and general liberalism in 1920's central to Art Deco style
sports such as Tennis and Swimming heightened in popularity, generated new simpler look, experimentation in design and cut


Fashion designers Paul Poiret, Jean Patou, Madeleine Vionnet and Gabrielle Chanel all portrayed Art Deco style