SKETCHBOOK: CONTEMPORARY RESEARCH

I conducted some contemporary research on the 1920's into how the style of the period had been translated and represented in contemporary fashion. This style has been repeated quite often, Spring/Summer 2012 in particular gave a nod to the decade, and even was reported as a key trend by Vogue under the name of 'Gatsby Glamour'

The first page shows collections from a range of designers from Philosophy by Alberta Ferreti SS12 (far left), Marchesa SS11 (two images on far right) Ralph Lauren SS12 (centre and bottom left images) and Diane von Furstenburg AW 2008 (second left). The second page is Gucci SS12, a collection that fully embodied 1920's style.

1920'S DESIGNERS: PAUL POIRET

First Art Deco designer

Artistic flair and individual cutting skills

Inspired by: Western historical styles to folk traditions, avant guarde art to ancient cultures

1908 collection - high waisted straight dresses

Liberated women from the corset, passage towards straighter silhouettes

motifs details and ornaments- used folk art, stylized floral and geometry

1920'S DESIGNERS: MADELEINE VIONNET AND CHANEL

Haute Couture designers
both had new styles and celebrated freedom and movement in women's clothes
had different styles between them, Vionnet focusing more on cut, Chanel more on the style

MADELEINE VIONNET
used drape, took inspiration from Japanese designers used origami
brought about the bias cut dress, was previously just used for collars, this had a better fit
tended to let the fabric control the shape and effect of the garment
rarely used motifs/embroidery, if she did - sparingly, let the shape speak for itself

I particularly like the way Vionnet drapes the fabric, the final garment always enhances the women's figure. The finished garment, is soft, flowing and elegant.

CHANEL
During the 20's Chanel was the first designer to use jersey in women's clothes, it had previously been used for men's underwear. This created a more relaxed style that contrasted to the stiff corsets they were used to, which were now, by many, seen as impractical and uncomfortable. Chanel sported a striking bob and tan so as well as a designer, was seen as a style icon. In 1925, she created the cardigan jacket and in 1926 the little black dress, both of which were very popular at the time, and still to this day remain key garments in current Chanel collections. The little black dress was new because the colour had always been associated with mourning, Chanel flipped this, designing a dress for glamorous evening occasions.
Chanel also produced beaded dresses, designed for the flappers of the time

 

 

research taken from http://www.thebiographychannel.co.uk/biographies/coco-chanel.html

images from  http://www.elle.com/fashion/spotlight/coco-chanel-portrait-1920#slide-1 and google images

SKETCHBOOK: FLAPPERS

 In my sketchbook, I conducted some research into flappers as this is one of the first things I think of when looking at the 1920's. I research into it and found images that show the style and also the actions of these women. They appear to be very carefree, they were rebellious and didn't follow the rules of society at the time.

The images show the looking very glamorous, this is what they were all about, with embellished and fringed dresses, bold make up and elegant hairstyles.  I drew a small sketch in the corner of the page in fine liner which demonstrates a typical silhouette for a 1920's dress. 

 

ART DECO NOTES

Ballet Russes and Leon Bakst - founded in Russia, to rejuvenate Ballet, moved to Paris in 1909




















Cubist motifs featuring fragments of broken mirrors and huge sequins. The sequins and embellishments used give a very dramatic effect, making the dresses very desirable and glamorous.

Stylized motifs borrowed from national traditions, folk art and ancient cultures. I really like these bold patterns, they are eye catching and sophisticated

Luxurious materials - silk, lace and rayon

Emancipation of women and general liberalism in 1920's central to Art Deco style
sports such as Tennis and Swimming heightened in popularity, generated new simpler look, experimentation in design and cut

Fashion designers Paul Poiret, Jean Patou, Madeleine Vionnet and Gabrielle Chanel all portrayed Art Deco style

ART DECO LECTURE - 26/10/2012

LECTURE NOTES

Art Nouveau preced the Art Deco movement 
Also known as 'The Jazz Age' 
Showed difference between moderne and modernistic
- Moderne - another word for art deco -figurative, more unique, could be patterned, heavier on eye.
Classical, would refer to a variety of cultures and look back into history for inspiration.
Items hand crafted, luxurious and exotic, not common popular with the wealthy.
Also copied to make more commercial, cheap and kitsch
- Modernistic - very plain and simple style, light, airy design
Anti historical, always looking forward in design, something new and unseen
Designed for a wide audience, standardised look, all identical
Abstract shapes
Associated with the wealthy – those who had a lifestyle of luxury hotels, cruises, the orient express, all with art deco interiors. Very opulent time
 
1925 Exposition Internationale, Paris, 1925Marked the start of the use of the term Art Deco.
Shaped by France’s after war ambitions, wanted to establish reputation of French taste and goodsParis became one of the most fashionable cities in the world, Eiffel tower a central landmark to the Art Deco movement
Critieria of the exhibition – had to have modern inspiration, but not totally abandon tradition, establish themes and repertoire of art decoHad an immediate worldwide effect- Art Deco uses abstract in the decoration not in the shape of the product. Sugawara Seizo introduced the art of lacquerwork to Paris, taught French designers. Added shine and colour, glamourous appearance
Chanel showed art deco style in her clothes Art Deco began being for the rich, with many style icon figures seen as art deco consumers such as Wallis Simpson and Daisy FellowsIt looked to the future but still referenced the past, mixture of traditional and modern